natives.jonbosche.fortiddns.com

Native plants for the front yard and the riverbank

We're replacing two tough spots with plants that grow wild in northern Illinois. The shady front yard and parkway get woodland flowers and sedges this fall. The steep bank down to the river gets deep-rooted prairie and wetland plants next spring, to hold the soil in place. Both plantings are built to feed bees, butterflies and birds from May through October.

Front yard
200 plants · Oct 2026
Riverbank
850 plants · May–Jun 2027
Native species
30
In bloom
May–October
The short version

Why native plants

Food for pollinators

Native bees and butterflies evolved alongside these plants, and many can only raise their young on them. Monarch caterpillars eat only milkweed. Pearl Crescent butterflies need asters. Some bees collect pollen only from beardtongues or only from bee balm. Lawn grass and most garden imports feed almost none of them.

Roots that hold soil

Prairie grasses like Big Bluestem and Indian Grass send roots 6 to 15 ft or more into the ground, while lawn grass roots stay in the top few inches. On a riverbank, those deep roots work like rebar in concrete, holding the slope together.

Less work once they're in

Once established, these plants need no fertilizer, no pesticides and no regular watering. After the first two years, the main jobs are pulling the odd weed and cutting back old stems each spring.

Something in bloom from May to October

The 19 flowering plants in both plantings, by month. A steady supply of flowers matters more to pollinators than any single showy plant.

MayJunJulAugSepOct
Hairy BeardtongueYard
Blue Wild IndigoBank
Prairie AlumrootYard
Southern Blue FlagBank
Calico BeardtongueYard
Eastern BeebalmYard
Foxglove BeardtongueBoth
Purple ConeflowerBank
Elm-leaved GoldenrodBoth
Great Blue LobeliaBank
Tall BellflowerYard
Meadow Blazing StarBank
Swamp MilkweedBank
Big-leaved AsterYard
Brown-eyed SusanYard
New England AsterBank
Short's AsterYard
SneezeweedBank
White SnakerootBank*
Plant in October 2026 · south-facing · deep shade from a mature oak, a treated ash and a hedge

Front yard and parkway

There are two beds, both in shade most of the day.

Plan view of the wedge-shaped yard bed beside the oak and hedge, the gate path, and the parkway around the ash, with 200 plants placedHOUSEPUBLIC SIDEWALKSTREETGATETALL HEDGEASHOAKroot flare:leaf mulch onlyBED B · YARD170 sq ft · ~91 plantable · 110 plantsstepping-stone path to the gate →8 ftFRONT WALKBED A · PARKWAY12.5 × 8 ft · ~80 sq ft plantable · 90 plantscurb · Path Rush step-out edgeN5 ft
Each dot is one plant, drawn to scale. Dashed circles show the tree canopies. Shaded rings around the trunks are root zones that get leaf mulch only, no digging. Bed shapes are drawn from approximate measurements.
  • James' Sedge Carex jamesii
  • Path Rush Juncus tenuis
  • Big-leaved Aster Eurybia macrophylla
  • Silky Wild Rye Elymus villosus
  • Elm-leaved Goldenrod Solidago ulmifolia
  • Short's Aster Symphyotrichum shortii
  • Prairie Alumroot Heuchera richardsonii
  • Hairy Beardtongue Penstemon hirsutus
  • Eastern Beebalm Monarda bradburiana
  • Foxglove Beardtongue Penstemon digitalis
  • Bottlebrush Grass Elymus patula
  • Calico Beardtongue Penstemon calycosus
  • Tall Bellflower Campanula americana
  • Brown-eyed Susan Rudbeckia triloba
PlantWhere it goesHeightBloomsGood forParkwayYard
James' SedgeCarex jamesiiEdges: the yard bed's sidewalk tip and front-walk side, and the parkway's sidewalk side1'grassCaterpillar host for several moths; winter shelter for insects3020
Path RushJuncus tenuisParkway, along the curb1'grassSeeds for small birds15–
Big-leaved AsterEurybia macrophyllaDarkest spots: around the oak on the east side, and north of the ash1'August–OctoberLate-summer nectar for bees and butterflies2515
Silky Wild RyeElymus villosusYard bed, northeast corner by the hedge3'grassSeeds for birds; shelter for insects–10
Elm-leaved GoldenrodSolidago ulmifoliaYard bed, back row along the path3'July–OctoberFall nectar; goldenrods feed more kinds of caterpillars than almost any other flower–10
Short's AsterSymphyotrichum shortiiYard bed, back row along the path3'August–OctoberFall nectar for bees and migrating monarchs; Pearl Crescent butterfly host–10
Prairie AlumrootHeuchera richardsoniiParkway curb side; yard bed middle2'May–JulySmall native bees105
Hairy BeardtonguePenstemon hirsutusSunny corners: parkway ends and the yard bed's sidewalk tip1.5'May–JuneBumble bees, plus a mason bee that collects pollen only from beardtongues55
Eastern BeebalmMonarda bradburianaParkway ends; yard bed middle1.5'June–JulyBumble bees and hummingbird moths55
Foxglove BeardtonguePenstemon digitalisYard bed, west side by the walk, north half (the brightest part)3'June–JulyBumble bees, plus a mason bee that collects pollen only from beardtongues–10
Bottlebrush GrassElymus patulaYard bed, southeast side by the hedge3'grassSeeds for birds; shelter for insects–5
Calico BeardtonguePenstemon calycosusYard bed, along the front walk4'June–JulyBumble bees, plus a mason bee that collects pollen only from beardtongues–5
Tall BellflowerCampanula americanaYard bed, back row toward the oak5'July–OctoberBumble bees and small native bees–5
Brown-eyed SusanRudbeckia trilobaYard bed, back row in the northwest corner5'August–OctoberLate-summer nectar for bees and butterflies; seeds for goldfinches–5
14 kinds of plants90110

Rules for working near the trees

  • Stay out of the root rings. Don't dig within about 4 ft of the oak trunk or 1 ft of the ash trunk. Put shredded leaves there instead.
  • Dig small holes only. Each hole is about the size of a coffee mug. If you hit a root thicker than your finger, move the hole over a few inches. Never cut it.
  • Don't change the soil level. No piles of new soil over the roots, and set the stepping stones on top of the ground instead of digging them in.
  • Keep the ash's base clear. An arborist treats the ash every 2–3 years by injecting it at the base of the trunk, and needs room to work.

For pollinators

Beardtongues and bee balm bloom in late spring and early summer, when bumble bee colonies are growing. The goldenrod and asters carry the bed through fall, when monarchs pass through on their way to Mexico. Leaving the oak leaves in place over winter gives shelter to the caterpillars, beetles and queen bumble bees that spend the winter in leaf litter.

Plant in May–June 2027 · east-facing · 25 ft wide × 35 ft down a steep slope · morning sun, afternoon shade

Riverbank

The bank between the yard and the river is steep, and parts of it are losing soil to rain and high water. This planting is an erosion-control project first. Pollinators and looks come second. It's also designed to take care of itself, so nobody has to climb the bank to keep it in shape. Deep-rooted prairie grasses that grow in clumps and stay where they're planted make up about three-quarters of the plants. They do the holding. Clumps of flowers make up the rest, chosen so something is blooming on the bank every month from May to October, with Swamp Milkweed for monarchs. Everything goes in about a foot apart through a coconut-fiber blanket. The ground that floods gets fewer plants, and only tough ones. White Snakeroot, a native wildflower already coming up where invasive knotweed was cleared, stays too. 850 plants in all.

How this stops erosion

Soil leaves a riverbank in three ways. Rain runs over bare ground and carries soil down the slope. High water and waves from passing boats cut into the bottom of the bank. And once the bottom is undercut, chunks of the slope slump into the river. The plan answers each one:

  • The coir blanket covers bare soil from day one. Rain soaks in through it instead of washing soil away. The blanket breaks down in 2–3 years, about when the plants take over the job.
  • The coir log at the water's edge takes the force of waves and current, so the bottom of the bank stops getting undercut.
  • Deep roots from Indian Grass, Big Bluestem and Prairie Cordgrass pin the slope together. Big Bluestem's roots can go 15 ft or more.
  • Root mats from Tussock Sedge, Dark-green Bulrush, Sweet Flag and Prairie Cordgrass weave the top few inches of soil together, where rain does its damage. Near the water, where soil stays too wet for deep roots, these mats do most of the holding.

What makes erosion worse: clearing the bank bare, mowing it, walking the same line down the slope, dumping grass clippings or brush over the edge (it smothers plants and adds weight), and pointing downspouts or sump lines at the top of the bank.

Cross-section of the east-facing riverbank showing the four planting zones, coir blanket, coir log and water levelsmorning sun from the eastafternoon shadefrom the westhigh water (floods Lower bank)normal water levelRIVERTOP · 7 ftMID-SLOPE · 18 ftLOWER BANK · 7 ftTOE · 3 ftcoir blanket trenched6" deep at topstaked coir logschematic, not to scale · slope length 35 ft · looking north, west on the left
A side view of the bank (not to scale). Zones are measured down the slope from the top. The line between Mid-slope and Lower bank follows the high-water mark, where debris collects after floods.
Riverbank face seen from the river, 25 ft wide by 35 ft down-slope, with 850 plugs placed by zoneTOP OF BANK (yard / trees, west)TOP7 ft · 175MID-SLOPE18 ft · 500LOWER BANK7 ft · 125TOE3 ft · 50RIVER (east) · coir log along toehigh-water line25 ft along the river
The bank face as seen from the river, one dot per plant. Circles are grasses and flowers, diamonds are sedges, and triangles are rushes and water plants. Flowers go in clumps of five so the grasses don't swamp them. The White Snakeroot already on the bank isn't shown.

Legend

  • Indian Grass Sorghastrum nutans
  • Big Bluestem Andropogon gerardii
  • Prairie Cordgrass Spartina pectinata
  • Canada Wild Rye Elymus canadensis
  • Virginia Wild Rye Elymus virginicus
  • Common Tussock Sedge Carex stricta
  • Dark-green Bulrush Scirpus atrovirens
  • Sweet Flag Acorus americanus
  • Blue Wild Indigo Baptisia australis
  • Southern Blue Flag Iris virginica var. shrevei
  • Foxglove Beardtongue Penstemon digitalis
  • Purple Coneflower Echinacea purpurea
  • Elm-leaved Goldenrod Solidago ulmifolia
  • Great Blue Lobelia Lobelia siphilitica
  • Swamp Milkweed Asclepias incarnata
  • Meadow Blazing Star Liatris ligulistylis
  • Sneezeweed Helenium autumnale
  • New England Aster Symphyotrichum novae-angliae

Root depth by zone

ZoneDeep 6 ft+Medium 3–6 ftShallow mat
Top60%34%6%
Mid-slope59%23%18%
Lower bank32%12%56%
Toe0%0%100%

Depths are typical for these species in prairie root studies. Big Bluestem often reaches 15 ft or more. Roots can't grow deep into soil that stays waterlogged, so the wet zones near the river root shallower no matter what grows there. There, the coir log and thick root mats do the work instead.

For pollinators

Something flowers on the bank from May through October. Blue Wild Indigo and Blue Flag open the season in May. Foxglove Beardtongue and Purple Coneflower carry June and July. Late summer is the busiest stretch: Swamp Milkweed, Meadow Blazing Star, Elm-leaved Goldenrod, Sneezeweed, Great Blue Lobelia and New England Aster, plus the White Snakeroot already there.

For monarchs, Swamp Milkweed is the caterpillar food. Meadow Blazing Star, Purple Coneflower and New England Aster are nectar stops, both for summer monarchs and for the fall migration south. The prairie grasses host several skipper caterpillars, and their standing stems shelter insects over winter.

Top

7 ft band · ~175 sq ft · 175 plants · 60% deep-rooted

The top 7 ft of the slope. Dry and rarely flooded. Indian Grass and Big Bluestem anchor the edge of the yard, with clumps of Blue Wild Indigo, Foxglove Beardtongue, Purple Coneflower, Meadow Blazing Star and New England Aster for color from May into October.

PlantTypeRootsHeightGood forPlants
Indian GrassSorghastrum nutansgrassDeep · 6–15+ ft6'Caterpillar host for skippers; seeds and winter cover for birds60
Big BluestemAndropogon gerardiigrassDeep · 6–15+ ft6'Caterpillar host for several skippers35
Canada Wild RyeElymus canadensisgrassMedium · 3–6 ft5'Seeds for birds; fast cover while the slower plants grow30
Blue Wild IndigoBaptisia australisflowerDeep · 6–15+ ft4'Bumble bees; Wild Indigo Duskywing butterfly host10
Foxglove BeardtonguePenstemon digitalisflowerShallow mat · under 3 ft3'Bumble bees, plus a mason bee that collects pollen only from beardtongues10
Purple ConeflowerEchinacea purpureaflowerMedium · 3–6 ft4'Bees and butterflies all summer; seeds for goldfinches10
Meadow Blazing StarLiatris ligulistylisflowerMedium · 3–6 ft5'A favorite nectar stop for monarchs; bumble bees10
New England AsterSymphyotrichum novae-angliaeflowerMedium · 3–6 ft5'Fuel for migrating monarchs; Pearl Crescent butterfly host10

Mid-slope

18 ft band · ~450 sq ft · 500 plants · 59% deep-rooted

The next 18 ft, and the steepest part. Clump-forming grasses with the deepest roots on the bank. Virginia Wild Rye and Elm-leaved Goldenrod fill the shadiest spots, alongside the White Snakeroot already growing there. Flower clumps run through it, and Swamp Milkweed sits at the bottom edge, where the soil stays moist.

PlantTypeRootsHeightGood forPlants
Indian GrassSorghastrum nutansgrassDeep · 6–15+ ft6'Caterpillar host for skippers; seeds and winter cover for birds165
Big BluestemAndropogon gerardiigrassDeep · 6–15+ ft6'Caterpillar host for several skippers120
Virginia Wild RyeElymus virginicusgrassShallow mat · under 3 ft4'Seeds for birds60
Canada Wild RyeElymus canadensisgrassMedium · 3–6 ft5'Seeds for birds; fast cover while the slower plants grow50
New England AsterSymphyotrichum novae-angliaeflowerMedium · 3–6 ft5'Fuel for migrating monarchs; Pearl Crescent butterfly host25
Elm-leaved GoldenrodSolidago ulmifoliaflowerShallow mat · under 3 ft3'Fall nectar; goldenrods feed more kinds of caterpillars than almost any other flower20
Purple ConeflowerEchinacea purpureaflowerMedium · 3–6 ft4'Bees and butterflies all summer; seeds for goldfinches15
Meadow Blazing StarLiatris ligulistylisflowerMedium · 3–6 ft5'A favorite nectar stop for monarchs; bumble bees15
Swamp MilkweedAsclepias incarnataflowerMedium · 3–6 ft4'Monarch caterpillar host plant10
Blue Wild IndigoBaptisia australisflowerDeep · 6–15+ ft4'Bumble bees; Wild Indigo Duskywing butterfly host10
Foxglove BeardtonguePenstemon digitalisflowerShallow mat · under 3 ft3'Bumble bees, plus a mason bee that collects pollen only from beardtongues10

Lower bank

7 ft band · ~175 sq ft · 125 plants · 32% deep-rooted

The next 7 ft, below the typical high-water line. Floods after big storms. Prairie Cordgrass is the one plant on the bank that's meant to spread: it knits this flood zone together, where little else holds. Swamp Milkweed, Blue Flag, Sneezeweed and Great Blue Lobelia handle wet feet and add flowers.

PlantTypeRootsHeightGood forPlants
Prairie CordgrassSpartina pectinatagrassDeep · 6–15+ ft7'Dense cover for nesting birds40
Common Tussock SedgeCarex strictasedgeShallow mat · under 3 ft3'Eyed Brown butterfly host30
Dark-green BulrushScirpus atrovirensrushShallow mat · under 3 ft5'Seeds for ducks and songbirds15
Swamp MilkweedAsclepias incarnataflowerMedium · 3–6 ft4'Monarch caterpillar host plant15
Southern Blue FlagIris virginica var. shreveiflowerShallow mat · under 3 ft3'Bumble bees10
SneezeweedHelenium autumnaleflowerShallow mat · under 3 ft4'Late-season nectar for bees and butterflies10
Great Blue LobeliaLobelia siphiliticaflowerShallow mat · under 3 ft3'Bumble bees5

Toe

3 ft band · ~75 sq ft · 50 plants · 0% deep-rooted

The bottom 3 ft at the water's edge, behind the coir log. Tough, flood-proof plants set sparsely, with Blue Flag for May and June color.

PlantTypeRootsHeightGood forPlants
Sweet FlagAcorus americanusforbShallow mat · under 3 ft2'Shelter at the water's edge20
Common Tussock SedgeCarex strictasedgeShallow mat · under 3 ft3'Eyed Brown butterfly host20
Southern Blue FlagIris virginica var. shreveiflowerShallow mat · under 3 ft3'Bumble bees10

Before ordering: mark the high-water line

The zones above assume typical high water reaches about 10 ft up the 35 ft slope. Check this in early spring, before the order goes in. Look for the line of washed-up sticks and trash, mud stains on tree trunks, or the point where the grass changes. Mark it with flags. The Lower bank zone starts there. If the real line is higher or lower, move the zone boundaries and keep the same mix in each zone.

Built to look after itself

  • Plants that stay put. The grasses and flowers on the slope grow in clumps and spread slowly, so none should take over and need thinning. Switch Grass, Blue Joint, River Oats and Mountain Mint were left out for that reason: each one spreads hard enough to need regular trips down the bank to keep it in check.
  • Swamp Milkweed, not Common Milkweed. Both feed monarchs, but Common Milkweed spreads by underground runners and would wander across the slope. Swamp Milkweed stays in neat clumps.
  • One deliberate spreader. Prairie Cordgrass spreads by underground runners, and that's exactly what the flood zone needs. It's planted only in the Lower bank, where flooding keeps most other plants out anyway.
  • Canada Wild Rye fades on its own. It grows fast to cover the ground in year one, then thins out by year 3 or 4 as the slower grasses fill in. No need to remove it.
  • Big Bluestem leans over late in the season at full height. Leave it; the roots keep working.
  • Leave the slope alone. No mowing, cutting back, raking or clearing. Standing grass and fallen stems protect the soil all winter.
  • Look from the top. Once each spring, look over the bank from the yard for bare patches or slumping. Most years there will be nothing to do.

White Snakeroot is welcome

White Snakeroot (Ageratina altissima) is a native woodland wildflower, 2–4 ft tall. It came up on its own where the knotweed was removed. That's a good sign: native plants are reclaiming the ground. It does well in shade, so it will hold the shadier parts of the slope while the grasses take the sunnier spots.

  • Leave it where it is. Plant the plugs around existing patches and skip spots where it's already thick. Use any leftover plugs to fill bare ground instead. The blanket's open weave lets it grow up through.
  • It dies back to the ground each winter, so it doesn't protect soil year-round the way grasses do. That's why the grasses are still planted all around it.
  • It's poisonous if eaten. It's harmless to touch, but keep pets and kids from chewing on it, and wash your hands after handling it.
  • It's a moist-ground plant, not a wetland plant. It belongs on the slope, not down in the water or on a wet shelf at the river's edge.

Watch for knotweed coming back

Invasive knotweed regrows from roots left deep in the ground, sometimes for several years after it's cut. It's the one thing on this bank worth checking for. Two or three times each summer for the first few years, look along the bank for its bamboo-like stems and broad, heart-shaped leaves. Cut any new shoots at the base. Each cut weakens the roots, and the snakeroot and grasses will close in behind.

For whoever does the planting

How to plant

The plants arrive as plugs: small plants with a root ball about the size of a thumb, packed 50 to a tray called a flat. They're easy to plant, but they dry out quickly. Plan to get them all in the ground within two days of delivery.

Tools

  • Hand trowel or soil knife (a hori-hori works best around roots)
  • Garden gloves and a kneeling pad
  • Tape measure and wire marker flags in a few colors
  • Watering can or a hose with a gentle shower nozzle
  • Bucket to carry plugs, and a tarp or old sheet to keep trays shaded
  • Shredded leaves for mulch (the oak supplies plenty)
  • This page on a phone, to check the planting map

Extra for the riverbank

  • Boots with good grip, and a rope tied off at the top to hold on the steep part
  • Coir blanket, wooden stakes and a rubber mallet
  • Utility knife to cut X-shaped slits in the blanket (an adult should handle this)
  • Flat spade to dig the trench at the top of the blanket
  • Life jacket for anyone working at the water's edge
  • For clearing debris: heavy leather gloves, safety glasses, buckets, contractor bags, a pry bar, and a tarp for sorting
  • Bolt cutters or an angle grinder to cut off rebar sticking out of the ground (adults only)

Planting one plug

  1. Water the tray first. Moist plugs slide out easily and handle the move better.
  2. Dig a hole a little deeper and wider than the plug, about 3 inches across and 4 inches deep.
  3. Pop the plug out from the bottom. Push up on the bottom of the cell with a finger or a pencil. Never pull it out by the leaves.
  4. Set it in the hole so the top of the root ball sits level with the ground. Too deep and it rots; too high and it dries out.
  5. Fill and firm. Push soil back around it and press down gently with your fingers to close any air pockets.
  6. Water it in right away, even if the ground is damp.

A good pace is about 50 plugs an hour once you get going. The front yard is about a four-hour job for one person.

Planting day, step by step

  1. Call 811 at least three business days before digging. It's free, and they mark buried gas, electric and water lines. This matters most in the parkway, where utilities often run.
  2. Mark the layout. Use the map on this page and push in a colored flag for each group of plants. Start with the edges (sedges and Path Rush), then the shady east side, then the back row, then fill in.
  3. Plant one kind at a time. Finish all the flags for one plant before opening the next tray, so nothing gets mixed up.
  4. Space them about a foot apart, roughly the length of a ruler. Sedges and Path Rush can go a little closer, about 10 inches.
  5. Mulch lightly with an inch of shredded leaves between the plants. Don't bury the plants' crowns.
  6. Water everything deeply when you finish.

After planting

  • Watering: every 2–3 days for the first two weeks, then once a week until the ground freezes. Next summer, water once a week whenever it goes 10 days without rain.
  • Weeding: pull weeds while they're small, during the first two summers. If you're not sure whether something is a weed, leave it and check the plant photos on Pizzo's site.
  • Frost heave: in late fall, check for plugs that the freezing and thawing have pushed out of the ground. Press them back in.
  • Winter: leave the stems and leaves standing. Native bees nest in hollow stems, and many insects spend the winter in the leaf litter.
  • Spring cleanup: wait until mid-April or later, when daytime temperatures stay above 50°F. Then cut old stems down to 12–18 inches, which leaves nesting spots for next year's bees.
  • Patience: natives spend their first year growing roots, not leaves. Gardeners say "the first year they sleep, the second year they creep, the third year they leap."

Riverbank planting, step by step

  1. Safety first. Never work on the bank alone. An adult should be at the top whenever someone is on the slope. Wear a life jacket below the high-water line. Stay off the bank for a few days after heavy rain, when the river is high or the soil is slick.
  2. Clear construction debris before anything else, following the debris guide below, so nobody kneels on hidden glass or metal later.
  3. Clear invasive plants (buckthorn, honeysuckle, reed canary grass, any knotweed shoots) by cutting them at the base. Leave the native plants, including the White Snakeroot, and leave the roots of anything you cut in the ground, because they still hold soil.
  4. Set the coir log along the water's edge, staked every 2–3 ft.
  5. Lay the blanket from the top down. Dig a trench 6 inches deep along the top of the bank and bury the top edge of the blanket in it. Then unroll it down the slope, overlapping the edges by 4–6 inches. Stake it every 2–3 ft.
  6. Plant through the blanket. Cut an X about 4 inches across, fold the flaps back, plant the plug, then fold the flaps back around it. Work from the top of the slope down so you're never kneeling on fresh plantings.
  7. Plant the water's edge last, once the river has dropped back to its normal summer level. The Lower bank and Toe zones are planted sparser on purpose, about 15 inches apart instead of 12.
Riverbank prep · November to March

Clearing construction debris from the bank

The slope has old construction debris on it. Some pieces sit loose on the surface, and others are half-buried in the soil. Clear it before the blanket goes down. Late fall through early spring is best, when plants have died back and you can see what's there. Pick a dry spell, because wet soil is slippery and tears loose easily.

Gear: heavy leather work gloves, boots with thick soles, safety glasses, long sleeves and long pants. Make sure everyone's tetanus shot is up to date, and keep a first-aid kit at the top of the bank.

Loose on the surface

  1. Work from the top down in strips about 5 ft wide, so it's easy to see what's been cleared.
  2. Pick up by hand into buckets or contractor bags. Fill bags only halfway so they're light enough to carry up the slope safely.
  3. Carry everything up to the top. Never roll or throw debris down the bank or toward the water.
  4. Use two people for heavy pieces, or tie a rope around the piece and haul it up from the top. Nobody stands below anything being moved.
  5. Lift, don't drag. Dragging things across the slope scrapes the soil loose.
  6. Sort at the top onto a tarp: metal, concrete and brick, wood, and general trash.

Embedded in the soil

Not everything buried needs to come out. For each piece, ask: is it a hazard, and will pulling it leave a hole?

  • Take it out if it's small and comes free with a little wiggling: bottles, cans, wire, small metal, bits of brick or tile. Fill the hole right away with soil carried down from the top, and press it firm.
  • Cut it off at ground level if it's metal sticking up out of something that won't budge, like rebar or pipe. An adult cuts it flush with bolt cutters or an angle grinder, so nothing is left to trip on or tear the blanket.
  • Leave it if it's a large, solidly set chunk of concrete, stone or brick. Big stable pieces help hold the soil, like a small retaining wall. Pulling them out leaves a crater that can start the slope slumping. Plant around them, and cut the blanket to fit.
  • Leave anything at or below the water line. Pieces right at the edge may be shielding the bank from the current, and work in the water may need a permit.
  • Flag what stays. Mark every buried piece you leave so the blanket crew and planters know where it is.

Stop and get an adult if you find

  • Drums, buckets or cans that might hold paint, oil, fuel or chemicals, especially if they're leaking or rusted through.
  • Old pipe wrap, gray cement-like siding or shingles, crumbly floor tile or insulation. Some older building materials contain asbestos. Don't break, cut or sweep them.
  • A strong chemical smell, stained or oily soil, or a rainbow sheen on the water nearby.
  • Needles or syringes.
  • Anything too heavy for two people to lift easily.

Leave it where it is, flag it and take a photo. Old paint and pressure-treated wood can contain lead or arsenic, so wash up after handling painted or treated wood scraps.

Getting rid of it

  • Concrete, brick, stone and asphalt: concrete recycling yards crush it into gravel and often take clean pieces free or for a small fee.
  • Metal: a scrap yard will take rebar, pipe and sheet metal, sometimes for a little cash.
  • Everything else: household trash carts usually can't take construction debris. Use a rented dumpster or a bag-style dumpster, or check your town's bulk-pickup rules.
  • Knotweed roots that come up with debris go in a sealed trash bag, never in the compost or a brush pile. Even small root pieces can sprout into new plants.
Fall 2026 through 2029

Schedule

  1. Early Oct 2026
    Order the front yard plants (4 flats). Call 811 to mark utilities.
  2. Mid-Oct 2026
    Plant the front yard and parkway within two days of delivery. Water until the ground freezes.
  3. Nov 2026 – Mar 2027
    Prepare the riverbank. Clear the construction debris, then cut buckthorn and honeysuckle. Winter is the easiest time to spot and reach both. If any part of the bank is actively washing out, lay the coir blanket there before spring.
  4. Mar – Apr 2027
    Mark the high-water line, then install the coir log and the blanket. Order the riverbank plants (17 flats) from Pizzo's spring list.
  5. May – Jun 2027
    Plant the riverbank, working from the top down, with the water's edge last.
  6. Summers 2027–28
    Water new plantings during dry spells, especially the upper riverbank in its first summer. Cut any knotweed shoots that come back.
  7. 2028–2029
    Fill-in. The front beds close their gaps, and the bank holds on its own roots.
From Pizzo Native Plant Nursery, Leland, Illinois

Plant lists

How ordering works

  • Pizzo sells plugs in flats of 50. A flat can mix different plants, with at least 5 of each kind.
  • After the order goes in, Pizzo emails an invoice with shipping added. It has to be paid within 24 hours. Orders ship 7–10 days after payment.
  • Prices and stock below come from Pizzo's availability list of September 30, 2026. The riverbank order will be placed from their spring 2027 list, so expect some changes.

Front yard: order now for October 2026

Item #PlantPlantsEachCost
CAMAME50Tall Bellflower Campanula americana5$1.75$8.75
CXJAME50James' Sedge Carex jamesii50$2.10$105.00
ELYPAT50Bottlebrush Grass Elymus patula5$1.75$8.75
ELYVIL50Silky Wild Rye Elymus villosus10$1.75$17.50
EURMAC50Big-leaved Aster Eurybia macrophylla40$1.75$70.00
HEURIC50Prairie Alumroot Heuchera richardsonii15$1.75$26.25
JUNTEN50Path Rush Juncus tenuis15$1.75$26.25
MONBRA50Eastern Beebalm Monarda bradburiana10$2.10$21.00
PENCAL50Calico Beardtongue Penstemon calycosus5$1.75$8.75
PENDIG50Foxglove Beardtongue Penstemon digitalis10$1.75$17.50
PENHIR50Hairy Beardtongue Penstemon hirsutus10$1.75$17.50
RUDTRI50Brown-eyed Susan Rudbeckia triloba5$1.75$8.75
SOLULM50Elm-leaved Goldenrod Solidago ulmifolia10$1.75$17.50
SYMSHO50Short's Aster Symphyotrichum shortii10$1.75$17.50
14 kinds · 4 flats of 50200$371.00

Riverbank: order in early spring 2027

Item #PlantPlantsEachCost
ACOAME50Sweet Flag Acorus americanus20$1.75$35.00
ANDGER50Big Bluestem Andropogon gerardii155$1.75$271.25
ASCINC50Swamp Milkweed Asclepias incarnata25$1.75$43.75
BAPAUS50Blue Wild Indigo Baptisia australis20$1.75$35.00
CXSTRI50Common Tussock Sedge Carex stricta50$1.75$87.50
ECHPUR50Purple Coneflower Echinacea purpurea25$1.75$43.75
ELYCAN50Canada Wild Rye Elymus canadensis80$1.75$140.00
ELYVIR50Virginia Wild Rye Elymus virginicus60$1.75$105.00
HELAUT50Sneezeweed Helenium autumnale10$1.75$17.50
IRIVIS50Southern Blue Flag Iris virginica var. shrevei20$1.75$35.00
LIALIG50Meadow Blazing Star Liatris ligulistylis25$1.75$43.75
LOBSIP50Great Blue Lobelia Lobelia siphilitica5$1.75$8.75
PENDIG50Foxglove Beardtongue Penstemon digitalis20$1.75$35.00
SCIATR50Dark-green Bulrush Scirpus atrovirens15$1.75$26.25
SOLULM50Elm-leaved Goldenrod Solidago ulmifolia20$1.75$35.00
SORNUT50Indian Grass Sorghastrum nutans225$1.75$393.75
SPAPEC50Prairie Cordgrass Spartina pectinata40$1.75$70.00
SYMNOV50New England Aster Symphyotrichum novae-angliae35$1.75$61.25
18 kinds · 17 flats of 50850$1,487.50

Not from Pizzo: about 900 sq ft of coir erosion blanket (choose one with no plastic netting, which can trap snakes and other wildlife), 25 ft of 12-inch coir log, and wooden stakes. Work right at the river's edge may need a permit from the Army Corps of Engineers, the Illinois DNR or MWRD. Check before installing the coir log.